The Invention of Speciality Coffee: How It Began and the First Speciality Coffee Shop in the UK

Speciality coffee has revolutionised the way we view and enjoy coffee. Unlike traditional commercial coffee, speciality coffee focuses on quality, traceability, and flavour, often involving expert roasting techniques and an artisanal approach to brewing. But how did this movement begin, and why did it capture the hearts of coffee enthusiasts across the globe? Here, we’ll explore the history of speciality coffee, how it came to the UK, and the first speciality coffee shop to open its doors in Britain.

The Origins of Speciality Coffee: A Focus on Quality

The concept of speciality coffee emerged in the 1970s in the United States, inspired by the work of Erna Knutsen, a coffee buyer based in San Francisco. During this time, most coffee consumed in the US and around the world was mass-produced, with little attention given to its origin or flavour profile. Knutsen coined the term “speciality coffee” to describe coffee beans grown in specific regions with unique microclimates that produced distinctive flavours. This marked the beginning of what we now call the “third wave” of coffee culture, where quality and transparency are prioritised above all else.

Knutsen's work inspired a movement of coffee professionals and enthusiasts who saw coffee as more than a commodity and instead celebrated it as a complex, nuanced product that could be enjoyed and appreciated much like fine wine. Speciality coffee was initially a niche market, catering to those who were willing to pay a premium for higher-quality beans. However, it quickly gained traction, sparking interest across the globe and influencing coffee trends worldwide.

The Growth of Speciality Coffee: From the US to the UK

The speciality coffee movement took off in the US in the 1980s and 1990s, with independent coffee roasters and cafes leading the charge. These early pioneers focused on sourcing coffee beans directly from farmers, often in regions like Ethiopia, Colombia, and Guatemala, where ideal growing conditions resulted in unique flavour profiles. The focus was not only on the quality of the beans but also on creating ethical, transparent relationships with farmers. This “direct trade” approach was intended to ensure fair pay and better working conditions for coffee growers, something that was often lacking in traditional coffee supply chains.

Speciality coffee began to influence British coffee culture by the early 2000s. Until then, the British coffee scene was largely dominated by instant coffee and high-street chains that offered quick, mass-produced drinks. However, British consumers were becoming more interested in high-quality, artisanal products, a trend seen across food and beverage industries. Speciality coffee appealed to this audience, offering a more refined and ethical coffee experience that focused on origin, flavour, and sustainable practices.

The First Speciality Coffee Shops in the UK: A New Era of Coffee Culture

The first wave of speciality coffee shops in the UK appeared in London and quickly gathered a loyal following. In 2005, Monmouth Coffee Company, one of the earliest pioneers of the movement in the UK, opened its doors in London’s Borough Market. Monmouth Coffee was not only dedicated to sourcing quality beans but also emphasised the importance of single-origin coffees, allowing customers to experience the distinct flavours of beans from specific regions.

Why Speciality Coffee Matters: Craft, Community, and Ethical Impact

The rise of speciality coffee has not only changed the way we drink coffee but also how we think about it. For many people, speciality coffee represents an escape from mass-produced, impersonal coffee and offers a return to craftsmanship and quality. Speciality coffee shops provide spaces for people to gather, learn, and enjoy coffee in a more mindful way, fostering a sense of community and connection.

Moreover, speciality coffee has had a positive impact on the coffee industry by promoting ethical practices. Many speciality coffee roasters establish direct relationships with coffee farmers, paying them higher prices and often investing in their communities. This approach not only improves the quality of the coffee but also helps create a more sustainable coffee industry that benefits farmers, consumers, and the environment alike.